Pesa'an &
Gomboran

Pesa’an & Kalambi Doreng / Pesa’an & Kalambi Doreng /

Pesa’an & Kalambi Doreng / Pesa’an & Kalambi Doreng /

Pesa’an & Kalambi Doreng / Pesa’an & Kalambi Doreng /

Today, Pesa’an is usually worn during important Madurese events such as wedding ceremonies. However, in the past, the Madurese were also able to use these Pesa'an clothes as daily clothing. Its loose size symbolises the openness, freedom and simplicity of the Madurese.

The red and white colours on the shirt represent Bopo-Biyung, or Father and Mother, as a reminder that us humans always come from our parents. The striped pattern represents power and persistentence, fighting against colonisers. The colour black represents the decisive character and steadfastness of the Maduranese people.

The Pesa’an worn as a complete outfit with the odheng (headpiece), kalambi doreng (striped shirt), gomboran (pants), pacca (sandals) and clurit (a traditional weapon that farmers use for work).

Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/

Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/

Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/ Pesa’an/

In the alternate future, we imagined the Pesa'an to be a more prominent daily wardrobe staple, hence functionality was important.

The loosely-fit outerwear now bore shorter three-quarter sleeves for easier mobility and would be made out of a comfortable natural fabric such as linen or silk. We added a detachable, utilitarian-style vest made from nylon repurposed from fishing nets or lines — a sustainable source for a maritime village like Madura. The vest features hardware and a pocket compartment for convenience as wearers go about their daily life.

Kalambi Doreng / Kalambi Doreng / Kalambi Doreng / Kalambi Doreng /

Kalambi Doreng / Kalambi Doreng / Kalambi Doreng / Kalambi Doreng /

The symbolism of the red and white stripes is a strong signifier of Madura culture and we questioned if such values would change in an independent, alternate Madura.

Was this fighting spirit a response to colonialism or was it ingrained in the Madurese people long before? Our perspective is that courage and determination are inherent Madurese values, hence the design retains the stripes and colourways, but much more expressive and artistic for a contemporary edge.

GOMBORAN/ GOMBORAN/ GOMBORAN/ GOMBORAN/

GOMBORAN/ GOMBORAN/ GOMBORAN/ GOMBORAN/

GOMBORAN/ GOMBORAN/ GOMBORAN/ GOMBORAN/

From a design perspective, we kept the gomboran simple in silhouette to complement the design of the tops.

It comes with utilitarian pockets on the sides and the deep maroon colour is inspired by the merging of red and black.